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Met Éireann Podcast And Podchraoladh - Waves And The Science Of Surfing

Image Courtesy of Elaine Farrell Photography. Taken at the base of the Cliffs of Moher, Co. Clare on Sunday 16th February 2020 during Storm Dennis around 11am. Photo taken using a Nikon D850 with 200-500 lens.

Image courtesy of Elaine Farrell Photography. Taken at the base of the Cliffs of Moher, Co. Clare on Sunday 16th February 2020 during Storm Dennis around 11am. Photo taken using a Nikon D850 with a 200-500 lens.

Located on the western edge of Europe, Ireland experiences the full impact of the Atlantic Ocean’s waves. In the first episode of 2020, Liz and Noel are joined by Met Éireann marine researcher Dr. Sarah Gallagher and surf coach and professional bodyboarder Seamus McGoldrick of Sligo Surf Experience. Together, they explore how waves form and travel, and the best ways to predict their development as a forecaster and as a surfer. We hear how local conditions such as wind, tides and seabed all influence the size and shape of a breaking wave and it’s surfing potential.

Ireland’s reputation is steadily growing as one of the World’s best surfing locations, and in this episode, we learn the reasons behind the regular arrival of large swells on these shores and the quality of Ireland’s numerous surf breaks. Searching for and riding new, powerful waves in Ireland and around the world requires extensive research and training. We hear about the preparation that goes into high-level surfing, and the physical and mental benefits that draw surfers of all abilities into the ocean.

We learn how massive amounts of energy stored in the waves of the Atlantic can reshape our coastline, toss huge boulders inland, and potentially be harnessed for producing electricity. Finally, we look at how climate change may influence Ireland’s waves and how surfers are tackling the broader environmental issues affecting our oceans.

Listen above or on the podcast page on our website here along with Episode 8 notes. It is also available wherever you normally get your podcasts.

L-R Noel Fitzpatrick, Dr. Sarah Gallagher, Liz Walsh, Seamus McGoldrick

L-R Noel Fitzpatrick, Dr. Sarah Gallagher, Liz Walsh, Seamus McGoldrick from Sligo Surf Experience

The Irish version of this podcast is available now on ‘Podchraoladh Met Éireann’, more details here . It is also available on all podcast channels.

Tonnta na hÉireann agus eolaíocht an tonnmharcaíocht.

Sa chlár an mhí seo beidh muid ag caint faoi tonnta nó maidhmeannaí agus eolaíocht an tonnmharcaíocht nó surfáil. Cén chaoi a bhfoirmíonn tonnta? Cén fhad is féidir leo taisteal? Céard é todhchaí na dtonnta in Éirinn?

An ról tábhachtach atá ag an ngaoth ar na tonnta agus i surfáil agus go ginearálta. É seo go léir agus i bfhad níos mó.

Friesin sa gclár an mhí seo beidh an Aoichainteoir agus marcadóir tonnta Greg O Braonáin liom ag caint faoi cad a chiallaíonn sé a bheith ina mharcadóir tonnta sa tír seo.

Image Courtesy of Elaine Farrell Photography. Taken at the base of the Cliffs of Moher, Co. Clare on Sunday 16th February 2020 during Storm Dennis around 11am. Photo taken using a Nikon D850 with 200-500 lens.

Photo taken at Bailinscelligs, Co Kerry, 1.5m SW swell at 14seconds, with light northerly winds. Date unknown.

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